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The early morning view from the hotel balcony is romantic; sun rays are breaking through the clouds promising better weather for today. We stay at the Enkelana hotel that is a former communist place, large and cold. The breakfast is very sober with dry bread and coffee from the thermos flask.
But then the waitor is kind and brings me an espresso from the coffee bar downstairs. It is now a public park. We walk to that park, along the lake Ohrid. The lake is a fragile eco system with endemic species that have survived for millions of years. I am shocked to find this tube letting sewage water into the lake, and at a high speed. The park of Hoxha makes a nice walk along ponds with ducks and swans and between weeping willows.
We next start our journey back to Tirana following the Ohrid lake on the west side and then climbing uphill. The border to Macedonia is about 4km away. There is a field with about twenty mushroom bunkers built by Hoxha. We cross the Jablanica hills and follow the river Shkumbin on the tracks of ancient Via Egnatia from Rome to Istanbul. On the border of the Skumbim river, we stop at the Gjahtari restaurant.
The restaurant is large and well visited. We eat Pershesh: This is chicken on bread with intestines, all prepared in an earthernware pot that arrived at the table sizzling. The chicken was very crispy and tasty. Elbasan is quite a welcoming town. The old city with its narrow streets hides behind the town wall. The garden is absolutely perfect, with flowers, bushes and trees, all well trimmed. A talented gardener has architected it. Ben wants to introduce me to the priest that refuses to report into the patriarch of Greece, but the gate is closed.
