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We are in a hotel in the town of Shkoder in Albania. The national flag hangs from half a dozen poles outside the entrance alongside that of the Socialist Party. The hotels owner became a member of Parliament yesterday, as the Socialists took a landslide election victory. We do have a habit of being in places that feature on BBC online. Here that is not too surprising.

It has been a very unstable country, in the very heart of a troubled area of the world. Not the quietest of hotels as you may have guessed. We have had to keep on looking things up on Google to try to understand the areas that we have biked through in the last week. That is where we found out that Albania has had 12 variations of its national flag in the last one hundred year. Not particularly a sign of continuity.

It begins as a gentle climb out of Skopje towards the border with Kosovo. Borders tend to be drawn on the line of a natural barrier, a river or mountain. This one is a mountain, and the grades stiffen. All is well with the passport control and we get our own line to wait in. Just as we leave the guard asks us about our route. The road follows the twists and turns of a deep and wooded valley. What an abrupt and conclusive change from the landscape of Macedonia. The more that things look like Scotland, the happier we are.

A fast-moving river keeps us company. As the road steepens, we can hear it tumbling over rocks, unseen in scrub and trees to our right. We have not had the sound of rushing water for as long as we can remember. We check out a number of pitch spots. Just beyond the village of Gotvusa, we find one that ticks most of the boxes and that we can agree on. All around us there is activity in the cool of the evening.