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After arriving in Tirana we proceed to the historical heart of Albania: Kruja. In the Middle Ages, an Albanian aristocrat founded his own principality here for the first time. This is also the place where the national hero Skanderbeg successfully defended thee fortress against the invading Ottomans until his death.

Gjergj Kastrioti, as his real name implies, plays a major role in Albanian self-image. The museum dedicated to him in Kruja Castle, which was built during communism by Enver Hoxha to strengthen Albanianism, gives us the best possible introduction to a theme that we will encounter again and again during our journey. Apparently far away from home we are looking forward to some surprising experiences on the fascinating Balkans.

When we meet a leader of the Bektashi Tekke we come to philosophize. Founded by a Sufi and mystic in Asia Minor, this order has enjoyed great popularity in Albania since the 19th century. We continue inland to Berat, the city of windows. We enjoy the view of the illuminated facades at dinner and have a first sip of Raki. Here we spend the next two nights in our historic hotel with charm of a bygone time.

Together we explore our district Mangalem, an outstanding example of the preserved Ottoman architectural style. In Berat, in contrast to other regions of Albania, we generally find maintained buildings from the time of the Ottoman occupation. Therefore, mosques stand next to Orthodox churches.