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Looking for ways to get better at overhangs? Ask Scout, our new AI chat. Try It Out. Start Your Free Trial. Every Monday we publish the most unbelievable stories of climbing stupidity submitted by our readers. See something unbelayvable? Tell us in the comments and your story could be featured in a future edition, online or in print.
For more Unbelayvable, check out the Unbelayvable Archives. Which is fine. But he swung over to a nearby sport route, clipped a bolt, and proceeded as follows: Swing to the original route, clean gear, swing back, lower to the next bolt, clip it, yard back up to the current bolt, clean the draw, fall on the lower bolt, and repeat.
And if the rope runs sideways to your pro, it could create a dangerous angle. The easiest way to bail from a trad route is by building an anchor out of nuts the cheapest to leave and bail biners one locker, two opposite and opposite non-lockers, or one non-locker with the gate taped shut then clean gear as you descend or retrieve it later on rappel if you can access the top.
Another option is to aid past the crux and finish the climb. Check out Aid Climbing for Free Climbers for tips. Instead of rappelling normally-—one by one down both strands of the rope—they set up a curious simul-rap. He descended one strand while she braced herself at the top as a meat anchor, holding the brake line tight to keep the rope in place. He made it down, and then she descended her strand while he meat-anchored her from the ground.