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And Porto Seguro, once a settlement of pioneers, has become a refuge for Brazilian and international tourists. South of Porto Seguro, on Praia Pitinga, women are allowed to go topless. Nude sunbathing is also OK for both men and women. The colonial center is small and distinctive, with its strange layout and odd buildings; the people are affable; the city beaches are broad and beautiful; and a short walk beyond these, there are even better beaches.
The center is lively, with several old, gargoyled buildings such as the Prefeitura. The Praia da Avenida, close to the city center, is always active, but has reportedly been polluted by the port. Simultaneously, the slave system was finally coming to an end, with many slaves escaping and others being freed. Sudden, lawless and violent, the scramble for the white cacao fruit displayed all the characteristics of a gold rush.
The landless were left to work, and usually live, on the fazendas where they were subjected to a harsh and paternalistic labor system. The lush tropical hills are covered with the skinny cacao trees with large, pod-shaped fruit dangling. If you take a drive you will still see cacao fazendas and rural workers like those Amado wrote about. You can also visit the small Museu Regional do Cacao, the port and, with a bit of effort and luck, a fazenda.
Orientation The city is sandwiched between hills, beach and a small harbor at the mouth of the Rio Cachoeira. Not many writers can boast this sort of recognition while still alive! Museu Regional do Cacau The recently restored and upgraded Museu Regional do Cacau displays cacao artifacts and modern painting by local artists. Opening hours are Monday to Friday from 8.
