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In her year as a Thomas J. Watson Fellow, Jasmine Qin traveled through four great rivers Rhine, Amazon, Mekong, and Ganges from source to delta, living with communities, interviewing experts, hiking mountains, and traveling on boats. Here, she shares her adventure through the Amazon River and the complex, intertwining stories that follow the boto.
I t was the fourth day that I had been traveling on a passenger ship named Oliveira, swinging my way through the Amazon River on a hammock, weaved in among hundreds onboard.
Fully loaded, Oliveira was on her first voyage after Christmas from Tabatinga, a small Brazilian town bordering Peru and Colombia, heading east towards Manaus, the heart of the central Amazon. Just below Manaus, our ship passed the famous meeting of waters. The dark water of Rio Negro hails from the ancient Brazilian highlands, whose sediment trickled away millions of years ago. Filtering through fine sandy soil, organic chemicals from fallen leaves and dead wood leach directly into Rio Negro and brew a nearly sterile river of acid tannin tea.
I had dreamed of encountering the Amazon long before I acquired my first passport. Growing up among concrete jungles, I kept my eyes peeled for TV programs about majestic jaguars camouflaged in spots, flocks of raucous parrots, giant fish charged with electricity, miniscule brilliantly colored frogs, and butterflies bigger than my palm.