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For quite a few days I planned to leave, but kept finding excuses to stay. As this shows, people have been living there for a while now. Archaeological evidence actually indicates a human presence as early as BCE. The town today is a magical living thing, with winding alleys and narrow staircases, old white-painted houses that look as though they were built into the cliff, and beautiful wooden architecture. The main part of Veliko Tarnovo wraps around a horseshoe bend in the Yantra River, and the river here winds so tightly that the fortress sits high on a peninsula at another bend.
I must admit though, it was the old part of town that charmed me; the part with white-painted houses and dark wooden roofs, where little old ladies in oversized cardigans walked home with their shopping; where dogs barked so ferociously I thought I might be heading towards a drug den; where overgrown and abandoned churches crumble slowly with the onslaught of time; where cobblestone streets sprout slippery green grass, and stray cats sit patiently on every other fence.
For some reason, despite not being religious, I really like icons. And, of course, it would be remiss of me not to mention that the hostel I stayed at was wonderful. Hostel Mostel in Veliko Tarnovo is definitely the place to stay, and including dinner meant I had more money for important things like cider.
They also gave good recommendations for restaurants with the perfect combination of English menus, low prices, and amazing local food. Shtastlivetsa was simply so good that I had to go back again, and following their suggestion for one of the sache dishes, served on a sizzling hot pan, this was the result:.
