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My next stop after the pyramids of Tikal would be a few days in remote historic Livingston, a port town on the Caribbean Sea accessible only by water. A plan requiring an extended grind aboard a converted school bus traveling from Flores south to Rio Dulce, where the canyon passage to the coast begins.
Directed to stop for anyone wishing to board or exit anywhere along the highway, the math was brutal—ten hours to cover kms. My preference for buses as a low-stress means of observing the world was about to be sorely tested. This level of service recalled the old joke about chicken buses in Latin America, a class of coach so named for rural passengers who might bring a crate of live poultry along for the ride.
The humid interior held a sticky funk of mildew, diesel and barnyard sod, barely tempered by the open windows. Offering to stand for more challenged riders when the heaving carriage filled beyond capacity meant muscle-cramping, body-jostling feats of balance and posture in the sweaty crowded aisle. Imagine a game of Twister in a bouncy castle rolling down a country highway. I felt a palpable wave of relief as we pushed out from shore and steered into the open water.
A friend had recommended Livingston. Being late to the game, I never took part in that romance. Population growth, rapid development, and information spread have changed the dynamics of travel for tourists and vagabonds alike, but Circumspectral certainly respects the spirit of that earlier ethos. Unrushed and uncurated, flexible and adaptable, giving equal weight to witnessing the mundane as one would to marking off bucket-list accomplishments.