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In Cairo, my family lives on the ground floor of an old building, in a sprawling, high-ceilinged apartment with three doors to the outside. There was no pickup schedule, and no preferred container; I could use bags or boxes, or I could simply toss loose garbage outside. I was instructed to pay him whatever I believed to be fair, and if I pleased I could pay him nothing at all. Since we moved into the apartment, the country has cycled through three constitutions, three Presidents, four Prime Ministers, and more than seven hundred members of parliament.
In a sprawling, chaotic city of more than seventeen million, zabaleen like Sayyid have managed to develop one of the most efficient municipal recycling networks in the world. At first, I never saw Sayyid working, because he cleared my fire escape before dawn. After three months of this invisible service, he approached me one day on the street and asked if I had previously lived in China.
He said that he had an important question about Chinese medicine. Usually, his clothes are several sizes too large, and his shoes flap like those of a clown, because he harvests them from the garbage of bigger men. At my apartment, he produced a small red box decorated with gold calligraphy. After his death, his sons threw away the pills and other possessions. It uses batteries. He told me that the trash had also contained Egyptian sex pills and a large collection of pornographic magazines.
I asked where the dead man used to work. He had four million and forty-four dollars in his bank account. The precision of this figure caught my attention, and I asked Sayyid how he knew. I made a mental note to be careful about what I threw away. Sayyid asked for details about the Chinese medicine, and I did my best to translate the part about waiting twenty minutes before fucking make love.
