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Planning to visit the island of Koufonisia? Travel better with our essential guide. Just before the sun set, the uninhabited island across the water would be cast in a shade of soft lilac.
Sitting on sloping rocks in secret coves, where the pale pebbles crackled like popcorn kernels on a hot stove every time the water retreated, we'd do our own version of the Rorschach test: did its outline of stretched hills look more like two giant kissing lizards or dogs sleeping nose to nose? The locals said in the light of a full moon it resembled a pregnant woman but, no matter how much we squinted for a belly, we couldn't see her. Eventually, when the last drop of the sun's warmth gave way to shadow, the essentials of a Koufonisia summer's day would be packed up - a paperback, towels, goggles, crushed beer cans, suncream that smells of coconut - and we'd join others shuffling back along the unpaved coastal road in bikinis and swim shorts, glistening skin coloured several shades of caramel and water drops from salty hair dripping into the dust.
The final stop on our slow hop around some of the Small Cyclades, the diminutive island of Koufonisia offered no challenges and no stresses. There was no need to schedule anything or make a to-do list each day, and the concept of time faded away.
In this guide to visiting Koufonisia, we've shared all our favourite things to do on this incredible Greek destination. Whilst there are a growing number of accommodations and bars catering to the Cyclades chic of better known islands, and you'll hear more international voices on Koufonisia than on less frequented nearby islands, it feels like a world away from them.