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April 1, An important exhibition of photographs finished recently at the Historical Museum of Heraklion. Gypsies, or Tsiganoi, mainly women, made a photographic documentary about their lives that was revealing and touching.
In January we talked about that exhibition. I have no Gypsy friends. I used to see campfire lights in the distance as I walked home as a kid, growing up in Staffordshire, England. Years ago, during the grape-picking season in France I discussed with friends the possibility that we might follow some noise and the lights and invite ourselves to their source, another Gypsy camp, which we never did. It would have been too strange, or too daring.
Last month I mentioned in the Crete Gazette that I would visit the Gypsy Tsiganoi camp at Nea Alikarnassos, outside Heraklion, prompted in some ways by the recent exhibition of photographs, taken by Gypsies, mainly young women, shown at the excellent Historical Museum of Heraklion. I had little idea what or how I would write about the Tsiganoi before last month, but following a series of seminars and various films at HMH, I was sufficiently confident to produce a piece of writing.
Despite feeling like a tourist, I had to visit the camp to meet people face to face. My companion, a woman who has lived many years in Heraklio, was also surprised that it took us so long to locate an entrance to a site that houses approximately people, a sizeable village.
