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Caution is advised when visiting Ermoupolis on Syros, the aristocratic capital of the Cycladic islands: it just might slay your heart. The second time I saw the city of Ermoupolis on Syros, I was convinced I had been cast ashore onto some kinder, cleaner iteration of Piraeus, one with Instagram filter set to perma-Disneyland. And that is no complaint. I love Piraeus and all its grit but the absence of it in compact Ermoupolis, a town that is a capital and knows it, is pure urban lemonade.
And Jesus, why does everyone seem so happy, and where do they all disappear to from 3 to 6? There are a number of spots where you can do this, like the hidden seaside terrace of the lovely Hotel Ploes, but you have to be a hotel guest. Then there are some secret places and also some quite social ones, like the famous, non-beach seafront Asteria Beach Bar.
There, you can nibble under the sun and then just jump, minding the sea urchins as you take an easy plunge into waters pristine and aquamarine. Once, having jumped into the sea next to the Ploes, turning away from the surreal sight of the big blue dome of Agios Nikolaos looming over the water line I swam over to what I was sure was a pleasant seafront bar, part of a hotel perhaps.
There was a small ladder extending into the water so I climbed up it. The place had a beautiful and wide terrace. The first time I saw Ermoupolis it was with an uneasy mix of befuddlement. Instead of snow white Mykonian-esque sugar cubes, what filled my line of vision was two rather severe hilltops, each with antique houses piled on high amphitheatrically and also sternly, as if issuing a silent dare to the tsunami from the next Thera eruption: Go ahead, mess with us.