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Waking at 3 a. Below me lies a deep fjord where icebergs float serenely in steely blue water. The background is a cyclorama of jagged mountains, their dark shoulders cloaked with late snow. I stare dumbly, wondering for a moment whether I might be sleepwalking through some hyper-vivid dream. There are few genuinely new frontiers in modern travel, but Greenland is surely one of them.
It hardly seems a decade ago that the coolest, most talked-about new Nordic destination was Iceland. To the west, across the ice floes of Baffin Bay, lay the wastes of northern Canada. To the north, the frozen wilds of the polar lands. I have come to Greenland as the guest of Jon and Anika Krogh of Nomad Greenland , whose tented camps in remote locations are pushing the envelope for wilderness travel in this part of the world. The other mode of entry is via Reykjavik, Iceland. Anika Krogh, a strong-limbed woman with a mane of black hair who identifies passionately with her Inuit roots, picks me up from the tiny airport and we head into town.
Housing blocks are sprouting in the black, tree-less landscapes around the town. The waves of new arrivals include immigrants from Thailand and the Philippines, mineral prospectors and mining engineers, and meteorologists from all over the world, here to examine the fast-changing realities of a place on the frontline of climate upheaval.
Greenland is vast, wild, and mostly empty: that much I know from my old-fashioned atlas. A country the size of western Europe with a population of just 60,, Greenland is still a dependent territory of Denmark though in it was granted a degree of autonomy by its erstwhile colonizers.