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I retire at just gone midnight, but am awoken at 2. He is standing at the entrance to the living room, shining a torch-light in my face, and it is obvious that he is excited about something. He tells me that I have to come immediately as there is a polar bear in front of my house.
We run outside into the pitch black. I have my pocket video camera, but no torch, and stumble with sleepiness in the deep snow. I am still half-asleep and in my confusion I forget for a moment that I am in a hunting settlement and have in my mind this image of people watching a polar bear walking rather majestically between the houses and very close to us. Sadly, I am mistaken and the truth is remorsefully other. A dead male polar bear lies directly outside my house.
It was shot two minutes ago. He had smelt the seal blubber lying around the settlement and had taken his chance. The hysterical barking of the dogs woke up my neighbour and the animal was killed quickly with two bullets. It took three men 20 minutes to skin this vast eco-icon of the Arctic.
It was done there and then, at 3am and in temperatures of C. There are no hunting trophies and there is absolutely no waste. This encounter with a polar bear took place while I was living in a tiny settlement of 40 hunter-gatherers. In total, I spent a year living in three of the most northern permanently inhabited settlements in the world the town of Qaanaaq with a population of , Savissivik and Siorapaluk , documenting the minority language and the spoken traditions of the Inugguit a sub-group of the Inuit.
