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Land of the ice and snow: Sisimiut, the second largest city in Greenland, combats gloomy maritime weather with bright colors.
Late on my fourth day hiking the mile Arctic Circle Trail in western Greenland, I encountered smoke rising from the ground. White tendrils, sometimes columns, rose in all directions from charred soil and wisped out from an foot-tall hummocky, granite hillside to my left. To my right was the mile-long, string-bean-shaped Lake Amitsorsuaq, the biggest of the dozens of lakes we had hiked past since starting the trail. The smouldering ground extended to the lake's shore and made the supersaturated blues of the water pop even more.
While it was plausible that we had wandered into an area dense with steaming thermal features, we hadn't. Me, my boyfriend Derek and our friend Larry had finally reached one of the wildfires that made international news when they started a few weeks before our trip. When Larry approached Derek and me about doing the long-distance trek between the small community of Kangerlussuaq and Greenland's second largest city, Sisimiut - population about 5, - we said yes before looking at any maps or photos of what we'd be hiking through.
Larry had us at "Greenland," an island roughly the size of India, 80 percent of which is covered by an ice sheet that's between , and 1 million years old and almost two miles thick. The trail starts near the western edge of the ice cap and continues across one of the island's largest snow-and-ice-free expanses to Sisimiut and the Davis Strait, which separates the Labrador Sea and Baffin Bay.