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The journey to Uummannaq takes thirty-three hours and twelve minutes. Avannaata has an area of over , square kilometres and a population big enough — at just over 10, — that most of the benches in the waiting room and outside the small airport are occupied. Ten hours to Tokyo, five hours forty minutes to Rome, just three and a quarter hours to the North Pole. Following the snowstorm that cut Uummannaq off from the rest of Greenland for two days, Karin, a Danish teacher, arrives on the island.
The tables are laden with Greenlandic food — most importantly, mattak , raw whale skin as hard as cartilage, cut into cubes or sliced directly from the carcass. Dried whale and seal meat and all kinds of fish are also served, everything sprinkled copiously with salty Knorr flavouring and washed down with Coca-Cola or Faxe Kondi, the Danish equivalent of Sprite. Alongside the meats, a variety of cakes and sweets are laid out. The door is open, no need to knock or announce your arrival. The kaffemik lasts long enough for everyone to show their face.
You can stay as long as you want. To make it easier to find the right address the buildings in Uummannaq are numbered not according to their position on the street, but the order in which they were built , flags are hoisted outside the house hosting the gathering. White and red with a circle of inverse colours in the middle, symbolising the sun — white and absent in the winter, red and ever-present in the summer.
Greenlanders have only had their own flag since , but its colours still reference the many years of Danish rule. The flagpoles are taller than the trees here. During the kaffemik in sky-blue house number , Karin listens to the musical performance with her head buried in her arms. She talks in a whisper, but not so that no one can hear her. Thirty-five were male and twelve were female.
