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Timmiarmiut, Greenland

We have been keeping in touch with local climber Matt Bunn who has just finished a successful expedition in the fjords of Greenland. Here is a little excerpt from a recent email:.

The first was an m 17, quite a few nice pitches. The second ascent was a horror show. We opted to head up a gully as a method of gaining access to a ridge that would bring us to the highest peak of the cirque. When we got in it it became death scrambling. I mean death scrambling, by far one of the most stupidly terrifying things I have ever done. Because it was loose choss we could not rope up or rappel back down.

When we got to the col at the top of it we decided we would not return back down it. This meant we effectively had to do a traverse of 4 unclimbed summits in order to reach the most logical descent position.

With food for only a day and half with us, if we went after the peak we went up there for we would have had at least 3, if not 4 bivys and we only had food for 2. Most of it was loose 4th class scrambling with the odd low to mid 5th section. The best pitch of the route was one I had to climb to free out ropes when they jammed in a rappel. Took us about 53 hours. The third ascent was a stellar route, possibly one of the best I have ever climbed.

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