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The northern part of the country, which is thrust between Mexico and Belize, is mostly flat and steamy lowland jungle. But about halfway down, the land rises steeply into a tangled jumble of mountains cloaked in cold mists and inhabited by people whose indigenous traditions date back thousands of years. Many areas are decidedly challenging to reach with modern transport, giving the towns an air of mystical isolation. Sparsely inhabited throughout most of history, these difficult to reach mountain valleys have been a refuge for Mayan people to escape domination by civilizations as varied as the Toltecs, Aztecs, and Spanish.
Rain had kept us hunkered down in the low-elevation town of Cuatro Caminos for the past two days. On the morning of our departure, the weather was supposed to clear up. But it turned out be just another wet day. We donned our rain jackets and headed out into the misty drizzle. Pretty quickly we were soaked. After about a half hour of cycling we reached the foot of the Guatemalan Highlands, and our route turned sharply upwards.
Over the next three days we would gain nearly 10, ft 3, m in elevation. Our big ascent into the Guatemalan Highlands started in this unassuming town at the foot of the mountains. As we turned onto the road toward the sierras, folks seeking shelter from the rain watched incredulously as we cycle by. From there the road pitched up onto a ridiculously steep slope that lasted for about a mile. In addition, rain had made the surface even more slick and treacherous.
The road was so steep and slippery that we were barely able to push our bikes up the slope without our feet sliding out from under us. Both cars and trucks, were spinning their wheels trying to get up the mountainside.