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Haitians would not talk about the Macoutes or anyone of their problems, because complaints to the wrong person could end in arrest, beatings, torture, or even death. Now, across this small country — about the size of the state of Maryland — feelings are being released in every form imaginable. Political graffiti is smeared in red paint on adobe walls, demanding work, education, health care, justice.
Mansions — including a number owned by the Duvaliers — are burnt to the ground. Businesses are gutted — a supermarket here, a car dealership there. But amid the anger and destruction , there are also signs of gratitude. Throughout the countryside, crosses and altars are lovingly erected. And in Port-au-Prince, market women are selling plastic bags inscribed Merci legliz. It is already dark when we leave the main road that links the densely packed communities clinging to the possibilities of prosperity I Port-au-Prince.
I inch the car up the narrow roller-coaster alley because, like everywhere in Haiti after dark, the road serves as a living room. I park the car where the road ends, and then my Haitian companion and I walk the rest of the way along narrow paths that snake through a congested neighborhood of concrete block-and-plaster houses. The air is heavy. The sound of voices murmuring prayers comes from a tiny two-room house as we approach. Sixteen people are jammed into a circle in the front room.
Another four are squashed into the doorway leading to the back room. Ranging from their teens to middle age, these men and women begin singing a spirited Creole song about work and food, justice and equality.
