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Hungary is one of my favorite places to eat in Europe — ranking just a notch below Italy or France. When planning an itinerary here, I have to carve out a little extra time just to dine well.
Most national cuisines withered on the vine under communism, when quality ingredients and sometimes any ingredients grew scarce. And today, even as a foodie wave sweeps Europe, the eastern part of the continent sometimes feels stuck in a rut.
But right here in the middle of Eastern Europe, Hungary bucks that trend. The Hungarian culinary tradition is a fine balancing act between nourishing peasant food and delicate haute cuisine. Some of my all-time favorite Indian, French, and Italian meals have been prepared by Hungarian chefs. The defining Hungarian ingredient is paprika, which infuses every dish with a rich and smoky tingle.
Most Europeans have a timid palate. They seem terrified of spice. And Hungary is all too happy to provide it. Once, in the steamy southern plain of the country — where paprika grows like weeds — I visited a little church that reveres the red pepper. Carved columns were embossed with ripe peppers hanging on the vine.