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Hemmed inside a narrow gorge, squeezed between cliffs in a rocky valley, Galta Ji is a desolate place. I see barely any people, especially not other camera-wielding tourists. Alone, that is, until they begin to appear. I spot the first macaque sitting sentinel on a stone wall by the roadside, and then I hear the rest; a cacophony of squeals and yelps as a whole troop of them tumbles from a nearby tree, scuttling across my path like a group of scrumping children evading an incoming authority figure.
These mischievous residents are the reason that Galta Ji has gained its nickname of the Monkey Temple, not for any affiliation to the monkey god, Hanuman, but for the hundreds of misbehaving macaques and more languid langurs that call it their home. As I approach the complex, I can see that it is looking much more dishevelled than in its 16th-century prime; the walls are cracked and peeling and I seem to be the only person around. The buildings themselves seem to tumble down into the valley, set between two granite cliffs and descending in steps, with a building and a pool at each level.
There are a total of seven pools of Galta Ji, the holiest being the Galta Kund, which, legend says, will never go dry. The water in the deepest of the pools is claimed to be several elephants deep, fed from a spring that falls through the mouth of a sculpted cow. Pilgrims make their way to Galta Ji to bathe in the waters and, during important festivals, brave pilgrims are also known to jump from the surrounding cliffs into the tanks.
As I arrive at the highest pool, the only people attempting this death-defying feat are the local rhesus macaques. The pool is completely enclosed but with an open roof and small awnings in each corner. Climbing out, sopping wet, they shake themselves off and repeat the stunt.
