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From the prismatic Pleats Please collection to the modular, three-dimensional garments crafted from recycled plastic bottles in his Reality Lab, the captivating fashions by Japanese designer Issey Miyake are all about movement. Born in Hiroshima, Miyake studied graphic design at Tama Art University in Tokyo before relocating to Paris in , where he studied couture and cut his teeth working for Guy Laroche and Hubert de Givenchy.
In , he moved to New York, where he worked for Geoffrey Beene. He returned to Tokyo in to found his first solo venture, the Miyake Design Studio. By using a heat press to cure his fabrics after his garments are stitched, Miyake was able to maintain the accordion structure of the pleat, turning a series of folds into sculptural, often futuristic forms unbound by the shape of the human body.
The pleats are then created — a process that involves folding and ironing and is separate from the joining of seams — and individual pieces are subsequently hand-fed into a heat press.
The pleats are permanent and the garments can be worn and washed without losing their shape. In essence, he created an entirely new material whose iterations are infinite — a feat of technology as much as fashion.