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The young man stands firmly in front of me. His shirt has been removed and his arms are lifted towards the ceiling. The old dukun , or shaman, pulls the red-hot iron rod from the fire and plunges it into a bowl of water. I ask one of the other men in the room how we will know when this happens.
A week earlier, I arrive on the island of Madura, looking for some of the most powerful dukun in Indonesia. I alight at its easternmost point after six hours on a painfully hot, overcrowded bus. I am here for my own Madura dukun experience, and have no idea how easy it will be to find and how real it all is. I meet Mr. He is a small, elderly man with a grand smile of false teeth that click around as he speaks. He works various jobs, including a position at the local college, and occasionally smokes methamphetamines to keep up with the workload.
A devout Muslim, he prays five times a day and has travelled to Mecca twice. He is also a firm believer in the practice of Maduran dark magic and relies on spells to guide him through life. He tells me of his current life crisis and how he plans to consult with a dukun for advice and possible supernatural assistance. For the next five days, Mr. Nasir will escort me around Madura to meet a variety of dukun and witness this supernatural assistance first hand.
Indonesian dukun are held in high regard by their communities but are rarely revealed to strangers as magic practitioners. If their abilities are exposed, they could be killed by other dukun or hunted down and burned by the religious-extremist mob. They range from rain dukun, who keep bad weather away, to healing dukun, who perform spiritual surgeries, to the feared santet dukun, who place painful curses on their enemies and have the ability to kill through dark magic ilmu hitam.