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Apart from owning up to being unable to shed those extra 40 pounds, she seems capable of doing it all. Having grown into a genre in its own right, the food memoir, complete with the prerequisite black-and-white photographs of elderly family members, poignant anecdotes, and nostalgic reminiscences, is only as entertaining as its protagonist.
Her account of the sheer pleasure taken in cooking for, and eating with, her loved ones bursts with straightforward, no-nonsense enthusiasm for food and life. Like Admony herself, the food she cooks is confident and exuberant—a combination of the quintessential Persian and Yemenite dishes she ate and helped her mother cook as a child in the religious town of Bnei Brak, on the outskirts of Tel Aviv—popular Israeli street foods and local Arab dishes—and the kind of recipes that appear on her restaurant menus—sophisticated, inventive combinations of Mediterranean, Middle Eastern, and North African flavors.
In this sense, she is a prime representative of the group of Israeli-born chefs who have been stirring up a new wave of international interest in contemporary Israeli flavors. Infusing the Yiddish-derived term for a perfect housewife with a contemporary spirit, Admony joins a long line of Jewish balaboostas who have been writing cookbooks in America since the late 19 th century. She thereby continues a history of negotiating different visions of the ideal Jewish woman and the world she runs from her kitchen, while melding together culinary traditions and changing ideas about Jewish food in America.
Braunstein and Jenna Weissman Joselit. Rather, it is about living, cooking, and eating in a shifting personal and cultural world in which memories of preparing dinner on an Israeli army base are just as inspiring as a dish consumed on a terrace in Provence. Indeed, more than the recipes themselves, the most strikingly Israeli aspect of this book is the spirit of spontaneity, improvisation, and creativity it embodies.
