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Surfing is a surface water sport in which an individual, a surfer or two in tandem surfing , uses a board to ride on the forward section, or face, of a moving wave of water , which usually carries the surfer towards the shore. Waves suitable for surfing are primarily found on ocean shores, but can also be found as standing waves in the open ocean, in lakes , in rivers in the form of a tidal bore , or in wave pools.
The term surfing refers to a person riding a wave using a board, regardless of the stance. There are several types of boards. The Moche of Peru would often surf on reed craft, while the native peoples of the Pacific surfed waves on alaia , paipo, and other such water craft. Ancient cultures often surfed on their belly and knees, while the modern-day definition of surfing most often refers to a surfer riding a wave standing on a surfboard ; this is also referred to as stand-up surfing. Another prominent form of surfing is body boarding , where a surfer rides the wave on a bodyboard, either lying on their belly, drop knee one foot and one knee on the board , or sometimes even standing up on a body board.
Other types of surfing include knee boarding, surf matting riding inflatable mats and using foils. Body surfing , in which the wave is caught and ridden using the surfer's own body rather than a board, is very common and is considered by some surfers to be the purest form of surfing. The closest form of body surfing using a board is a handboard which normally has one strap over it to fit on one hand.
Surfers who body board, body surf, or handboard feel more drag as they move through the water than stand up surfers do. This holds body surfers into a more turbulent part of the wave often completely submerged by whitewater.
