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Remember shoegazing, that s genre? Especially in places such as Bibi Khanum mosque, where toddlers chase each other at ground level and masonry has a habit to fall from above. Move over to the opposite side of town.
A leafy boulevard, with not much but for a decent restaurant and a club pumping hardbass music behind blackened-out windows at 2PM. Enter the Orthodox church on the corner, stand in front of the altar and look up. You can almost hear the valzer. But this is no church or mosque. The tomb of the destroyer of so many Muslim cities is now a place of pilgrimage by devout Muslims. Sod orthodoxy.
Again, outskirts. Bukhara, this time. Centuries before Islam, the prophet Job happened to pass by and found Bukhara in the midst of a terrible drought. He saw the suffering and decided to do something about it. He struck his walking stick in the ground and — right there! Today the spring — Chasma Ayub — is still there. The Ark, despite its architectonic quirks, gave me a distinct impression of oppression, stale air, meaningless gestures, threat.
Bolo Hauz mosque. Warm tones on the outside — wood, ochre, orange, red velvets — and on the inside… this. Picture me surprised, but in a nice way. Chorsu Bazaar, Tashkent. Say hello to God knows how many meters of tangible Socialism. When I first visited Tajikistan in , the only tourist destinations I knew about were the Pamirs and the Fan Mountains. Fortunately, I met the friendly people at the Sworde-Teppa English and Education Centre in Qurghonteppa, and over the years they showed me the best places to visit throughout Khatlon Province.