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This post deals with cycling the Bartang Valley from west to east. For a report of the trip in the opposite direction, see Cycling the Bartang Valley: from Karakol to Rushan. The Pamir Highway is quite populated with touring cyclists. Each time we told a cyclist we were going to do the Bartang Valley it seemed no one actually believed we were going to make it. No, we were probably going to give up about halfway-through and have to turn around to the M41 again.
At some stretches you will have to detach your panniers from your bikes and carry each across separately! Maybe we were meant to be discouraged by these comments, but they did nothing but getting us even more excited!
The day we were to leave Rushan and take off the main road however, excited was the least thing I was. One does not simply ride across Tajikistan without getting a sick stomach. It was pure fucking misery. But at least I was not puking anymore the day we left, and we both agreed that we had had enough of that incredibly claustrophobic and bacteria-infested guesthouse, so off we went.
So not only was Bartang Valley infamous amongst our fellow cyclists, but also amongst the locals. Too weak to talk and nearly too weak to even stand up — my posture was like a sack of meal nearly tipping over — I just nodded, yes, Bartang Valley. The first 20 km or so as we had left the M41 was paved road, and that was all we did that first day.