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I stopped about six of these people and asked them to translate the words on their T-shirts to Russian or Kyrgyz. We talked in English, Kyrgyz and Russian about the who, what, when, where, why. And how. We talked about what it takes to be a journalist, what journalists do, what makes a story. These two agreed to model for my utterly unscientific summer research project: mystery beverage consumption. There are plenty of candidates; store shelves are lined with drinks that leave me baffled.
I was drawn to these for the ghastly green color Mountain Dew meets anti-freeze and labels that include a bird, pine cones and flowers. The green one haunts my fridge. It is a year-old flag with symbols that span ages. The crimson background symbolizes bravery and valor. The sun is said to represent peace and prosperity. The red ring with crisscrossed lines in the center of the sun represents the tunduk and by extension the family home.
The tunduk is the crown of the yurta. Though the ribs of the yurta are usually made of willow, heartier juniper or birch are used for the tunduk. Sudden rain at lunch, which made for a muddy return trail. Green, green and more green. Water, water and more water. River stones, fields of wildflowers. Vistas and the glorious balm of being in the big, wild out thereness. A profusion of white butterflies that looked like snowflakes in flight. The advice at the end of the day during the minibus ride home: Soak your feet in hot water for 20 minutes and drink grams of vodka.
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