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Start a travel blog Login. The Spice Chronicles. On summer weekends, there's a train from Bishkek to Balykchy, the first town on the western edge of the lake.
We pull up to the train station in Bishkek wondering if we're in the right place. There is not a soul in sight; quite a change from stepping around bodies in most Indian train stations. It's a 5 hour ride 2 hours longer than by car but supposedly more picturesque than the road running right along side us. No matter, we aren't in a hurry and the wood paneled train is rather retro. Bishkek train station. Alexei meets us in Balykchy and we drive an hour further east along the northern shore to Chalpon Ata on the north side of the lake for the night at his friend's guesthouse.
The next morning we visit the petroglyph museum nearby, and a nicely curated regional museum in town before stopping for lunch. The president of the Off Road Kings club happens to be having lunch at the same place, so we say hello, pose for a photo and look at the route map of the expedition. The only outstanding issue is our permit to circulate in the area near the Chinese border which is a bit tricky at the last minute, but someone in the club has a connection.
Petroglyphs, Cholpon Ata. Karakol feels like a frontier town with wide crisscrossed streets in various stages of resurfacing. There's a mini market on every corner, an inordinate number of clothing and shoe shops, a few rows of cargo containers that constitute the bazaar and some restaurants. Always on the hunt for a cappuccino and a good wifi connection, we stop in at Karakol Coffee. The only disturbing aspect of this nice cafe is the exceedingly effective flypaper strategically placed next to each table.