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This final leg of my journey through the Caucasus would take me through the republics of North Ossetia-Alania, Ingushetia, Chechnya and Dagestan; places almost unknown to the outside world, and places where most Russian citizens would fear to visit, being synonymous with terrorism, war, lawlessness and corruption. While I would witness first hand these negative aspects of the region, they would be minor frustrations in comparison to the fascinating cultural richness of this seldom-visited corner of Russia.
After winding down ten kilometres past stationary artillery pieces left at the road side, I enter the border compound of Nizhny Zarmag.
Instead of passing through with minimal fuss, as I had done four days earlier when I had left Russia, I am the focus of intense suspicion and repeated questioning regarding being a journalist, spy or terrorist. The truck is searched in great detail; a business card in Dari from a Kabul motor factor arouses suspicions, as do my large collection of photos on CDs which are viewed on my laptop.
I am made to stay at the border from around until closing time at , when I am instructed to follow a member of the intelligence services all the way down to Vladikavkaz, where I am interviewed by the Federalnaya Sluzhba Bezopasnosti or FSB, the successor of the Soviet KGB. I am asked cleverly sequenced questions designed to expose contradictory or false statements, asked why I am visiting North Ossetia, and upon mentioning some sites in the mountains, I am told that I may not leave any Federal Highway without a special permit.