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In the European summer of , the weather in July collapsed under crippling performance anxiety. As early as March, the sun began shining consistently, raising expectations for a long, hot summer. In the last week of this autumnal July, my Mom arrived for a visit. It rained steadily for the first three days of our stay, during which we stayed close to the house.
To combat cabin fever, we walked through the network of paths that stitch together the many small vineyards surrounding Pommard. We adults would return from our walks saturated with rain, but Juniper remained relatively dry under the canopy of her backpack. In fact, she has always enjoyed being outside in stormy conditions, so was quite happy during our rainy walks in Burgundy. Juniper enjoying a rainy walk among the vineyards.
This sensory sequence — visual during the day, followed by taste in the evening — emphasised for us the significant differences between wines that are grown a few hundred metres from each other.
The concept of terroir is elaborate in Burgundy, where, on the surface, there is little to distinguish among the vineyards and their wine. The parcels are often tiny, indistinguishable from their neighbours and they all produce wine from single grape varietals: mainly chardonnay for white and pinot noir for red. Yet, with an average production of only a few hundred cases each per year , Burgundy vintners produce wines with markedly different aromas, flavours, texture and longevity, neighbour from neighbour.
