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It was a short walk from Villa Dihovo to Bitola, about nine kilometers. Cruising easily along the mountainside in the early morning hours we passed the village of Brushnik. Two women, wooden walking sticks in hand, strolled towards us, staring at us questioningly. We get looks of pure befuddlement all the time from people. Sandra told them in Serbian that we were walking the Via Egnatia.
It has followed us throughout our trip and seems to be used by many people in the Balkans. We came around a bend while skirting the hillside above Bitola to the south on a dirt path through pine forest. We were close to the village of Lavci.
We had heard sheep baaing. Coming around the corner, less than five meters away, stood a menacing sheepdog snarling. We were terrified. Macedonian sheepdogs look like mutts on steroids, shaggy as buffalo, and protective of their flocks similar to the way a sow grizzly guards its cubs. The dog is both revered and feared by most people we have met along the way.
Talk about dogs is a mainstay conversation for us wherever we go. People always warn us about certain dogs ahead, sometimes even telling us to reroute. We slowly backed off. The dog froze and stopped coming towards us. In the end, we had to retreat and find another way into Bitola.