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Bodily fluids! Experiencing romance and nightmare on the overnight train linking Romania and Moldova. The means of transport to Moldova from the west are limited. There are expensive flights and overcrowded buses, but for those looking for a retro-chic experience of real travel, there is only one option - the overnight train. Moldovan writer Lina Vdovii has written a passionate account in the Romanian magazine Dilema Vechi about the fading grace of this service - a Soviet-era chain of sleeping cars from a time when the line would link the glorious Socialist brotherhood of Bulgaria, Romania and the USSR.
In her account, waiters serve hot pretzels and steaming tea in a buffet wagon, while the guards wax nostalgic over how the train was a vehicle for black marketeers and drunken students. But now the train - named Prietenia Friendship - is no more than a relic of hope in a great industrial future, and a rusty iron handshake between Moldova and Romania.
Lina traveled in first class and met some fascinating characters but, being English, I decided it was too expensive, so I opted for second class.
The express train to Hungary - a sapphire-colored bullet - stretches out from its platform in a silent and smooth movement. Two fat dogs chase after the train, barking and running on and off the tracks. Their legs risk being trapped in the wheels, leaving a bloody mix of paw, bone and ligament spinning through the undercarriage to Budapest. Inside the dark second class wagon to Chisinau, I find my seat in a booth accommodating four people. Scuffed brown and grey carpet lines the floor and the walls.
