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As the train crossed from Belgium into the Netherlands my excitement grew. I sat forward to get a better look out of the window at the country side. Then I saw them, beautiful, clean, pale red ribbons stretching through the low lying land. They were bicycle paths; actually not so much paths as bicycle highways, long and inviting, stretching into the distance with a promise to take you wherever you wanted to go in breezy, smooth self-powered tranquility.
It looked like the Promised Land I expected. The Netherlands is generally considered one of only a few places in the developed world where biking infrastructure is done right. There, the bicycle is viewed differently than most everywhere else. The bicycle is transportation first and foremost, not a toy, not a fitness device, and over several decades the Dutch have built paths and bike lanes in the cities, suburbs and countryside to facilitate the safe and convenient use of bikes by average people to get from point A to point B.
In that nation there are actually more bicycles than people; that is 17 million inhabitants and 23 million bikes. In the Netherlands the city that most often comes up in discussions about how to do biking right is Amsterdam, a dense city of about , people in the north of the country.
Among bicycle advocates Amsterdam is El Dorado, a fabled gleaming city to which those desiring an enlightened and pragmatic approach to transportation should look. Bicycle utopia was what I expected. What Amsterdam turned out to be was altogether different, a bicycle dystopia. Bikes rule the streets of Amsterdam. They are everywhere. Motor vehicles are there too, but they crawl through the narrow streets in obvious disproportion to the bikes.
