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I am the James B. My research and teaching explore questions around gender, culture, and history in modern Europe and especially France from the late 18th century through the mid 20th century.
How did late capitalist French society represent and navigate cultural change by reworking traditional tropes of masculinity, femininity, labor taste, craft, and honor? My new book, Working Girls: Sex, Taste, and Reform in the Parisian Garment Trades, Oxford, interrogates representations of female Parisian garment workers in popular culture and in social reform and labor activism from the s through World War I.
As the 20th century dawned and France entered an era of extraordinary labor activism and industrial competition, an insistently romantic vision of the Parisian garment worker was deployed by politicians, reformers, and artists to manage anxieties about economic and social change. And the midinettes — as these women were called- were written onto the geography of Paris itself, by way of festivals, monuments, historic preservation, and guide books.
The idealized working Parisienne stood in for, at once, the superiority of French taste and craft, and the political and sexual subordination of French women and labour. But she was also the public face of more than 80, real working women whose demands for better labour conditions were inflected, distorted, and, in some cases, amplified by this ubiquitous Romantic type in the decades straddling World War I.