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Dipping its toes in the North Sea and peering into fjords, this Norwegian city is but a short hop away from the wilderness. It first made big bucks in fish canning, then in North Sea oil, as two of its main museums recount. Yet, today, it surprises visitors with newfound urban cool. Tag on an extra day or two to climb knife-edge, fjord-side cliffs or enjoy a blissfully silent night in an off-grid nature escape. Wander around the old town, where the streets are lined with pretty timber houses — most from the 18th and early 19th centuries.
Those on Fargegaten street are painted in a rave of colours, while Gamle Stavanger has whitewashed, flower-draped alleys. Tour operator FjordEvents gets you out on the water with a windy two-hour RIB ride, with the last departure at 2. Few crowds and no engine noise ups the chances of sighting wildlife, too: look out for porpoises in the water, seals on the rocks and sea eagles wheeling above. Providing you booked weeks ahead, you can then take a seat at cover, Michelin-starred Sabi Omakase , where chef Roger Joya puts a Nordic spin on some of the best sushi in the country.
Next, dip back into the lanes of Gamle Stavanger old town to visit the recently revamped and expanded Norwegian Canning Museum, which shares a space with the Norwegian Printing Museum. Located in the glass-walled Stavanger Concert Hall, Spiseriet has one of the best Sunday brunches in town. Rock up at midday, sit on the terrace overlooking the fjord and enjoy a feast of eggs and pastries, with meat and fish from the carvery.
The building itself is architecturally striking, designed to resemble bedrock. Themes swing from cutting-edge technology to climate change. For drinks with a shot of art nouveau glamour, make for Salon du Nord at Hotel Victoria. One of few restaurants open on Sunday evening, it has an ever-changing menu where regional, seasonal ingredients shine, from cucumber with oyster emulsion to sea buckthorn with dandelion and sorrel.