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George the Bush. One of the first things I notice, walking around the city centre, is that the prices for some goods and services have dropped since last year. After we get our cellphone working, Ewa calls the man who did the work and makes arrangements to pay him. When he comes by to pick up the money, she gives him a good-sized tip. They gave up their country and then got tricked by history. They were supposed to be able to return for brief visits and live like kings on pennies a day.
Junior may well manage to alienate even the Poles, despite their long-standing love of his father, who gets credit in this part of the world for the collapse of communism. One of the largest medieval squares in Europe, it is dominated by the massive fourteenth-century Sukiennice, or Cloth Hall.
On the sidewalk, just beyond reach of the waiters who would probably have to run her off if she got any closer, a tiny Ukrainian woman plays the violin for change. Conservatory-trained, she left the Ukraine to play on street corners in far more affluent Krakow, in hopes of earning enough money to send her daughter to college. She also tried Berlin for a while, but to her surprise she discovered she could make more here than there.
Tonight she plays Wieniawski, and after Ewa goes over and places twenty zlotys in the violin case and tells how much she enjoyed it, the woman smiles, thanks her and proceeds to play the whole piece again. I usually make it three or four days in Poland before someone tries to cheat me. After my older daughter Tosha, Magda and I each spend fifteen minutes checking email and I go to pay, the guy at the desk doubles the price.
