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It wouldn't be Christmas morning without bagels. That's the consensus at Scott Lilly's home, where his wife's holiday tradition birthed a bagel-making hobby that eventually grew into the storefront Lilly opened in under the name Lox, Stocks and Bagels. Now, Lilly makes extra bagels on Christmas Eve, when they sell by the dozens to be brought home, sliced, toasted and graced with ham and a schmear around the Christmas tree.
Only in Eugene. Thirteen years living in New Jersey taught Lilly to appreciate a good bagel, so when he moved here in , married a local and started getting requests to fetch Christmas bagels, he was only too happy to oblige.
But at the time, he said there just weren't any to his liking. The difference between more anemic versions and Lox, Stocks and Bagels' firm, chubby rounds is the boiling step before baking, which he says other bagel makers skip in favor of a quick steaming in a hybrid oven.
But those steam jets can't accommodate the magic solution that makes his boiled bagels superior, Lilly said. It involves malt syrup, brown sugar or molasses, plus salt and baking soda. When baked, the sugars caramelize to form a crust that's strengthened by the alkalinity of the solution. And, of course, salt makes everything taste better. It takes longer, Lilly says, but to him it's worth it for his product to stand out.