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Q You often mention Poland when you are discussing new destinations. Where do you recommend I should dip a toe in the water for a three-day break? A There are many possible answers to your question. But let me narrow it down to a choice of three cities: the capital, Warsaw; ever-radiant and fascinating Krakow; and Gdansk. I love them all — but in the hope of persuading you that Poland is well worth repeat visits, I recommend Gdansk.
It is a handsome city with impressive architecture — not to mention dozens of great places to eat, drink and stay. Yet, it is also profoundly important for the history of Poland: partly because the opening shots of the Second World War were fired here, but also due to the Lenin Shipyard — where the Solidarity movement began the move to freedom in Today the European Solidarity Center, on the site of the shipyard, is one of the greatest cultural sites in eastern Europe, telling the story of how humanity prevailed over brute force.
Your question spurred me to look back. I was surprised to recall that I first went there almost 40 years ago, during the communist era. I have returned at least a dozen times since then: most recently, this summer when I followed the course of the Oder river north to the Baltic. And I shall be back in December for the Christmas market in Krakow. Perhaps I will see you there.
Q We have an early morning flight from London Gatwick and are staying overnight at one of the airport hotels. Do you recommend the service? A In a week when the scale of baggage misrouting has been much discussed, I must first recommend, if at all possible, that you travel only with cabin baggage. On British Airways, for example, you are allowed two pieces of hand luggage: a relatively compact backpack as well as a fairly chunky wheel-along case, each with a weight limit of 23kg.