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After the break up of the former Yugoslavia and the fall of communism in the Balkans, Macedonia quietly slipped away from a post Balkan War association with Serbia and Montenegro and became an independent nation in Then known as the somewhat unwieldy Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, a dispute with neighbours to the south, Greece, saw them become North Macedonia in October The capital city Skopje, has a population of around half a million and is a real melting pot of ethnicities, from Macedonians who are Eastern Orthodox Christians, Muslim Albanians, Romani, Turks, and smaller populations of Vlachs, Aromanians, Serbs and Muslim Bosniaks.
Given the recent history of area it seems to be a tolerant co-existence with the Macedonians living mainly south of the River Vardar which bisects the city, and in the Gazi Baba area to the north. As a result the city has a modern feel with impressive architecture and a quite unbelievable amount of statues.
Once in and around the city centre, taxis are very cheap, and usually use their meters, although the main parts of the city are eminently walkable. The main tourist areas are therefore around Macedonia Square where there are mainly restaurants, shops, coffee shops and a few bars. Diametrically opposite to this area is the Old Bazaar area with its mosques, minarets, and ancient Ottoman buildings sitting tooth by jowl with microbreweries, pubs and coffee houses and a myriad of small businesses.
The area has a really cool vibe to it, especially at night. In Skopski Merak I greatly enjoyed a very filling traditional Macedonian dish called Tava Pork, beef, porcini, bacon, curd, and tomato , accompanied with Arabic bread. At Gostilnica Barak they specialise in lots of small dishes of which my favourite was a pork and leek dish called Prasotigania. It is fair to say that Macedonian football clubs played a low profile in the old Yugoslavian First League, indeed no clubs from Macedonia, Montenegro or Slovenia ever won the unified league.
