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But when the mercury dips, a different kind of watery relaxation is called for — the warm embrace of a hot spring. On November 23, , a massive trembler shook the coastal settlements, triggering a tsunami and inundating the shorefront with 8m-high waves. All but a dozen or so of the houses built close to the sea were destroyed. Perhaps the only sliver of positivity to come out of this geological upheaval was that when the aftershocks had at last receded, the locals of the Jinbaoli modern-day Jinshan area were left with newly-formed pools of seemingly limitless thermal waters.
Standing close to the ocean, just where the Jinbaoli Stream flows into the Yuantan River, the Governor-General Hot Spring is a hot-spring resort with historical pedigree. Opened in , it takes its name from the fact that for a few short years it was a guesthouse for the Japanese governor-general of Taiwan.
The building abuts the usefully defensive Shitoushan promontory, so when Japan ceded Taiwan at the end of World War II the ROC military seized it, stopped up the pipes, and used it as a base until later abandoning it. When the current owners inherited the building in , it was little more than a shell. The resort is known for its saltwater baths, and offers a range of hot-spring facilities.
Inside the building are exceedingly cute private rooms, most with dual hot and cold pools that are set in self-contained gardens. However, hot-spring aficionados seeking something a little more memorable should opt for the separate male and female open-air nude pools on the fourth floor.
