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I am standing in the tofu section of New Leaf, a local Santa Cruz market known for its organic produce and products. At New Leaf, you can buy everything organic: shiitake, tricolor beets, penne pasta, canned minestrone, espresso coffee beans, chardonnay, lamb chops, not to mention a choice of at least 4 brands of organic milk.
I call it alternative chic. Other shoppers stop to pick up packages of tofu, reaching past me with the confidence of their choices. One woman berates her partner. This one. That one has no taste. No taste. I think: when did tofu ever have a taste other than its own? My problem is that I am looking for a tasteless tofu, a monastic Zen experience, the tofu of my childhood, the tofu of my culture. My tofu is not on this shelf.
But I thought tofu was my culture. I give up. After all, I am in vegetarian country. Tofu here is a meat substitute. As such it is toughened up to give it consistency, flavored to make it palatable. Vegetarianism in this part of the world has taken on messianic proportions. Ronaldo who is Brazilian from that third world country where protein in any form is a blessing wonders at all the commotion.
Toy food? Welcome to Santa Cruz, old site of a California mission. Its county frontiers spread out along the California coast pressing against redwood forests, plantations of brussels sprouts, artichokes and strawberries.