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Jan Posted by ramblinginthecity. We visited Nantou on the last leg of our week-long field trip to Shenzhen on a hot, humid day. In contrast to the pulsating lanes of Baishouzhou and its unapologetic messiness, where we had spent relatively more time, Nantou appeared quaint and well suited to touristic exploration.
After all, the settlement had once been a walled city of considerable political importance, and the remnants of that history were strewn across the village in the form of arched gateways, temples and sacred niches. My most vivid memory is that of an active main street full of the myriad tastes of China punctuated by a select number of restored or being restored buildings. This, in stark contrast to Hubei, a true blue urban village dating back to the 15th century that faces redevelopment.
Walking towards the South Gate of Nantou, we recognized familiar landmarks — the ancestor hall, the ornate gate itself, the garden and its sculptures. And further in, the smaller gate that enters the settlement itself. The impressive gate and ancestor hall in Nantou remains unchanged. The controversy led to the review and censoring of many artworks, raising queries about the UABB as a space for dialogue, creativity and expression. Once we stepped inside, we realized how transformed the space was from what it used to be.
The street before us, full of vendors and teeming with life, was now a subdued cleaned-up version of itself. At the very least, these spaces were being used in many ways and by different kinds of people. Newspapers were being read here, mothers and children were catching the winter sun and old women were resting as well. Further in, we found another lovely large open space — a new basketball court, temporarily in disuse.
