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With a toot of its horn and a metallic screech, the Alishan Forest Railway rumbles out of Chiayi, a midsize city in southern Taiwan. As the humid jumble of roaring motorcycles and bubble-tea shops vanishes behind me, knotted electrical wires make way for betelnut plantations and small-town back gardens that straddle railroad tracks first built for loggers. The train , a popular attraction that brings people up and down the mountains, sputters past rice paddies and citrus orchards so close I can almost reach out and nab the fruits from my window.
Bamboo and sugar palms tickle the sides of the carriage. As the ride coils higher towards the peak, around zig-zag bends, the views fade behind a veil of fog held up by ancient red cypress trees whose cobra-size roots cover the ground like noodles.
My journey to the mountain retreat of Alishan is a slideshow of kaleidoscopic green that sums up the diversity of Taiwan, via tea estates and high-altitude forests dotted with Buddhist temples. It is a land where travellers can go from tropical coast to dense woodland in under two hours — part of the appeal of this aubergine shaped nation less than half the size of Ireland.
Alishan is one of my favourite stops on a road trip through the country, beginning in the capital, Taipei , in the north; continuing past some of the nine national parks full of hot springs; over cloud-shrouded mountaintops; and on to the surf and crystalline beaches of the far south.
