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With a wingspan approaching 1. Some say the biodiversity of Khao Sok exceeds that of the Amazon. Most agree that at over million years old, the evergreen rainforest here is one of the oldest in the world. Whichever list it tops, the fact this sq-km expanse of national park exists at all in its current state — alive with whooping gibbons, flashing hornbills and with such richness of flora and fauna that an entomologist on honeymoon once picked up a rock and discovered a new species — is something to be grateful for.
And this biodiversity haven owes a few thanks to an unexpected twist of fate. And thanks to them, thrive it does. Treetops shake with monkeys and birds, winged lizards bounce from branch to rock, and sky-high bamboo stalks bathe everything in a stripey green light. But for anyone wishing to swap beach beats for tranquil jungle trails, lake swimming, cool bat-filled caves and the chance to spot a wealth of indigenous species in their natural habitat, this secret garden is an easy getaway.
It is possible to trek independently and trails from the park headquarters are well-maintained and easy-to-follow, but the knowledge of the local guides will enhance your trip ten-fold. Most of the big mammals in the park — wild elephants, sun bears, clouded leopards and tigers — will remain elusive to trekkers, but the cracking of jackfruit should soon alert you to the presence of primates.
Long-tailed macaques are an almost guaranteed sight, with troupes making bold acrobatic displays right on the trail. White-handed gibbons and spectacled langurs are a rarer and more rewarding spot. Gibbons stick to the high branches making long, Tarzan-like swings through the trees; a joy to behold. Gaurs, tapirs and barking deer can sometimes be seen or heard, especially in the wet season June to October. On night safaris, the jungle takes on another persona as it squeaks and hisses with insects and some 30 bat species, including 8 varieties of megabat.