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You can buy a copy of our latest issue here. His shows for Saint Laurent are big, loud and bold — klieg lights swinging, music pumping, the Eiffel Tower suddenly, synchronically, exploding into a billion glittering lights as backdrop to high-octane, high-fashion experiences. The aforementioned man himself is quiet, controlled, reserved. Shy, even. The latest big statement Anthony Vaccarello — or rather, his clothes — has made is about his menswear intentions for Saint Laurent. It was a trek from Manhattan, but resulted in the illuminated skyline of New York City taking the place of the Eiffel Tower as the awe-inspiring backdrop.
Saint Laurent may seem quintessentially French, but back in September , the house made a splash in New York by launching their perfume Opium on a schooner named The Peking. Debut is actually the wrong word, although this is the first stand-alone menswear show that Vaccarello has staged. If that look, like that campaign, was about a statement of aesthetic intent rather than actual clothes, his sophomore show introduced a more robust menswear offering.
Historically, the importance of the house of Saint Laurent has been in precisely that fusion. Saint Laurent the man established Saint Laurent the house as the world leader in the sixties through the radical upheaval of borrowing menswear for women.
I have no idea where this strange thing comes from. I do it, even if I make a short dress. He is only the sixth name to head the house of Yves Saint Laurent, including the founder himself and only counting Hedi Slimane once, although he first took the helm of the menswear in the late nineties. He is a slightly-built year-old with a sparse beard and dark eyes. What feels free — and modern — about that is an exploration of male sensuality and sexuality, synonymous not only with the s generally, but with Saint Laurent specifically, the first fashion designer to have ever posed nude for his own perfume campaign.
