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George Herbert Leigh-Mallory 18 June — 8 or 9 June was an English mountaineer who participated in the first three British Mount Everest expeditions in the early s. He and Andrew Irvine , were last seen ascending near Everest's summit , during the expedition , sparking debate as to whether they reached it before they died. Born in Cheshire , England, Mallory became a student at Winchester College , where a teacher recruited him for an excursion in the Alps , and he developed a strong natural climbing ability.
After graduating from Magdalene College, Cambridge , where he became friends with prominent intellectuals, he taught at Charterhouse School while honing his climbing skills in the Alps and the English Lake District.
He pioneered new routes and became a respected figure in the British climbing community. His service in the First World War interrupted his climbing, but he returned with renewed vigor after the war. Mallory's most notable contributions to mountaineering were his expeditions to Everest.
In , he participated in the first British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition , which established the North Col -North Ridge as a viable route to the summit. In , he took part in a second expedition to attempt the first ascent of Everest, in which his team achieved a world altitude record of 27, ft 8, m using supplemental oxygen.
